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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.